Suman Roddam is a director, with Parameswaran K Iyer, at Bamboopecker and has a passion for bamboo, sustainable lifestyle, traditional crafts and rural economy. Bamboopecker at its core is to uplift traditional crafts with strong branding, utilitarian designs and provide stable livelihood to its artisans. Being an engineer by formal education, he sees product design with a different viewpoint, drawing inspiration from nature, culture and arts. He has travelled his native India, spending time with the rural artisans to understand their culture, their skills and materials; this helps him visualize the form and function of an upcoming creation. His idea is to restore the traditional skills and crafts to the modern context with new techniques and design philosophy.
Q: I cut a few dozen mature bamboo stalks last fall with the intent to make bedroom furniture out of them. I built a wooden dolly to hold them all horizontally. I put them in my 5x10 storage unit about a week after cutting them. I did not do anything to their surface before storing them. Within a month or two, all the poles were covered with a yellowish white dusty powder. Is this mold? Are they salvageable?
A: The yellow dusty powder is most likely due to a borer attack. If it is a borer, it is highly likely that only a few of the poles might be infested, and the powder has stuck on to the other poles stacked under the infested pole.
You can do a quick test - take each pole from your storage without shaking it too much, place it on a flat surface, clean the bamboo surface to remove collected powder. Now, move it to another place steadily away from the site you dusted the pole, at the new site shake/hit the pole both ways - keeping the pole horizontal or vertical. If powder falls from few areas it is definitely not mold it is a borer attack. After cleaning the poles if you see pin holes on the surface/knots/cross section of the bamboo then it is confirmed borer attack.
After these simple tests segregate the bamboo into two piles - 'may be' and 'may be not' infested. Even better if you can store them individually, with some distance between each pole. Now observe these poles over 2-7 days. Answers to look for after this exercise -
Is there powder collection on the pole or on the floor (around the pole(s))? If yes that pole is infested 100% For other poles, if powder isn't visible, shake and hit them. If powder falls you will need to retest these and also move it to maybe infected pile. Over 2 weeks you will know with reasonable confidence which poles are infested and which aren't.
Depending on where you are from, there are many treatments available for borers - boron solution immersion for the prescribed days, chromium based (this is a carcinogenic), some other pesticides that can be sprayed, etc. All these methods, post application, the bamboo poles should be observed for 7 days at the least after they are dried (in case of immersion application) Also if the infestation is very localized, that particular portion of the bamboo can be cut and discarded.
Q: I am having a really hard time finding answers and instruction how to dry out the bamboo that is growing on my land. I would love to be able to build some of the following: trellis, small furniture, decortive walling, plant holders, a bar for my pool deck, etc.
A: (Jo Scheer) Some basic principles of harvesting and curing are:
1. Harvest only poles that are mature- at least 5 years old.
2. Store in an open air rack -in the shade. You might want to rotate occasionally.
3. Cure for a few months, until completely dry, before use.
4. Stand cured bamboo, those that die and dried out while still in the stand, can be used immediately.
5. A light scrubbing with a dish scrubber will bring back the luster of the skin, and remove any lichens, etc.
6. Bamboo will split, especially the larger diameter pieces. You can wrap wire around the ends to prevent this, or, pre-split the bamboo to relieve the stress and prevent further splitting.
7. You can oil or wax the bamboo for a nice sheen, and it is good for protection from the elements.
Q: I live in Sri Lanka and nobody is building with bamboo here which is a shame. My understanding is that bamboo likes shade, no rain etc. Here it is always raining and the sun is scorching one minute and then not !! OK So I still wanna try and build a bamboo treehouse which will be shaded in a jack tree. So we cut the bamboo and the pieces are 30ft in length...what do we do then? Do we need to boil them? If so, in salt water or chemicals, and for how long? Do we then leave it for some time? I was thinking of building a 12 ft long boiling half cylinder welded oil cans cut in half !! Once these are cured what further treatments can we put on the bamboo to prevent rain and sun damage, temperature fluctuations etc.
A: (Jo Scheer) Make sure you cut older bamboo (over 5 years since sprouting)- it needs to lignify for strength and durability. Also, what is the species? Some species are better than others- starch content being the biggest factor (more starch-more attractive to bugs-termites, bamboo beetle.
The best environmentally benign treatment is with borax solution- either pressure injected into the xylem and phloem, or taken up naturally with a bucket under a newly cut bamboo (left standing-in place) Keep the bamboo out of the direct sun and rain as much as possible (borax is water soluble); big overhang. Also, keep bamboo away from direct contact with soil - route for bugs - and moisture retention. Bamboo should be cured (dried, in the shade) for a while (months) before use, or use only stand cured bamboo (dead, and dried naturally). Or, if exposed and airy construction design, you may use green bamboo (still not recommended). I have heard of salt-water soaking as a treatment also. But, it does leach out, and salt attracts moisture.
Q: I would like to construct a bamboo screen to enclose the under-floor area of a newly built pole-house in Sydney, Australia. The area is bushfire prone and subject to white-ant/ termite problems. I intend to harvest about 60 culms and cure by standing for 3 weeks then immersing in salt water for anothter 3 weeks. I would then like to longitudinally split the culms for ease of mounting and weight saving, then gal-wire the material onto 2m high sections of gal-steel grid (ala concrete reinforcement mesh) If the mechanics of the above sound ok, I wondered about the flamability of the product when cured, and wether the cured material is tempting to termites. We have the house erected on gal-steel poles and I want to avoid offering the little buggers an easy route of ingress. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
A: (Jo Scheer) I will say you aussies got your act together. The plan sounds good. I would recommend that the culms be split first, before soaking, so that the salt water can penetrate the meat of the culms better. Salt preservation works. I assume you have low rainfall and/or a large overhang- best for keeping the salt from leaching out. Also, direct sun on bamboo will dry it.crack it, and grey it. The bamboo should not come in contact with the earth. Moisture will rot it, and, it is a nice unseen route for those buggers. If the bamboo starts, say, 6 inches above grade, any ants/termites traveling upward can be seen, and dealt with. Also, leave a gap where the bamboo meets the house as well- another visual window. Also, a cheap preservative, in addition to salt treatment, is used engine oi. I've seen it used, though I've not used this technique. It might keep the bamboo from drying out a bit. Bamboo has a high flash point- the temperature where it burst into flame. But, once burning, burns intensely. Salt treatment does reduce the flammability, though not completely.
Q: We have a good overhang so moisture is not so much of an issue, but we have really strong sun in the early part of the day. Would the culms be less susceptible to cracking and drying out if left un-split? There are pre-fab fencing products (gal wired bleached bamboo) that I am trying to emulate in a way. Will these crack too or is there a step I'm missing.
A: (Jo Scheer) Actually, splitting the bamboo is the best thing you can do to prevent splitting. The eventual differential shrinkage that occurs with the drying process is inconsequential when the culms are already split. The splits can change their shape without the splitting if they were whole culms. Even pre-split culms may split more under direct sun, however. Love the splits- no problem!
Q: Do you know of any bamboo product for exterior siding? I live in a cool, rainy climate in Portland, OR.
A: (Jo Scheer) Bamboo needs to be treated with severe chemicals before it is ever ready for exterior siding. Bamboo likes it in the shade, away from rain, away from direct sun, away from moisture. Cedar, maybe.
Q: I purchased a 5" diameter 10' pole of Moso bamboo grown in China. It is slighty green shaded but mostly yellow so it is fairly freshly cut. The smaller end was split but I'm using 3' of the 5" end still entact. What can I do to best maintain pole and prevent splitting? I am using it indoors and reside in subtropical southern California.
A: (Jo Scheer) The bamboo will need to dry out, but slowly. Even so, the cracks will progress unless measures are taken. Cutting the remaining, unsplit bamboo from the split end will stop the progression. Also, you could wrap a few turns of wire around the ends to prevent a split from developing. A slow curing is best. Keep it in the shade, away from extreme changes in temperature. Allow air around it, store it vertical or well supported horizontally.
Q: Do you have to dry out the bamboo before building something such as a tiki bar?
A: (Jo Scheer) It is always best to dry out bamboo before using...slowly, uniformly, to prevent cracking. Even then the bamboo may crack, being exposed to whatever conditions. If you use green bamboo, use it as splits; it will not split more, and it is easier to bend. As it dries out, it will relax a bit to the contortion it is fitted. Depending on where you live, the bamboo may be more susceptible to insects if used green (the tropics).
Q: I cut down about 3000 bamboo shoots that the city said it had to go. Tomorrow a group of friends will help me move it. Now where is the question. Another friend said to submerge it underwater for a month than dry it standing, but for how long. Or could I just stand them in a metal silo which has a floor off the ground that breathes air. At one time it was used for drying grain. Now its just a silo. I live in Americus, Ga. so the moisture is going down, but inside is very dry from the weather. Does this sound in the right direction?
A:(Jo Scheer) Ideally, you cut the bamboo and let them stay in the stand until they lose their leaves and start turning brown - in the process they lose starch content and water. Soaking in water also dissolves and leaches starch. Storing in the silo sounds like a good drying place - in the shade, with ventilation.
My next problem is not enough time to complete the process. So, they're sitting in our cow pasture. If you were to look at them, they lie on the the ground, 6' wide, 4' to 5' ft. tall, and 20' to 30' long. The leaves are falling off slowly. I have questions, (1) the little branches, do they break off easy or do I still have to cut them off with a shape knife. Or what is the easiest way? (2) If they are lying on the ground, like they are, will they still dry if I put a tarp over them until I can get to them. Will the bottom ones laying on the ground grow roots? or just rot closest to the ground? What do you think?
A:(Jo Scheer) If you can raise the pile off the ground, it'd be better for drying. Lay some sacrificial bamboo 90 degrees to the pile. A tarp - to keep the bamboo in the shade, out of the rain, and dry is good. You may perhaps keep the ends open, for ventilation. Good that you kept the branches and leaves, they will facilitate the drying process, and use up food, ie, starch. The branches can be removed efficiently with a machete', or any sharp knife with some heft. An accurate swing from the underside of the branch works well. Cutting from the top may cause a strip of epidermis to peel away - not good.
Q: I'm looking to construct a free standing structure in the north east using Bamboo, what is the life cycle considering the harsh winter.
A:(Jo Scheer) A few years. It will crack initially, then weather. If kept somewhat dry, it will remain structurally sound for a while. Wire bamboo ends to prevent cracking, and try to keep it out of direct sun and rain.
Q: I live near Cancun Mexico. Humid, rainy, sunny. I'm building and would like to make the fence (wooden beams, then horizontal wooden beams, and then bamboo nailed to the beams without touching the ground); floor (laying bamboo then pouring a concrete on it). I found out where there is bamboo in a friend's place so I can cut it. Should I use it green as it would be almost close to impossible to arrange for a curing place? I'm not to much into aesthetics as I'm into functionality and practicality. Could I use them green, then rub motor oil on them?
A:(Jo Scheer) I have seen people do that, ie, motor oil preservative. Doesn't look good, but the bugs do not eat it, for sure. So, use it green, it will cure in place- airy. The reinforcement of concrete with bamboo is a technical endeavor. Much research has been done on the best way. You should investigate via the internet- lots of information available.
Q: Is there any way I can preserve bamboo with its original green color for at least a few years by sealing it?
A: (Jo Scheer) In a word, no. The green is chlorophyll- live, it breaks down rapidly with death of the tissue.
Q: My husband and I have purchased cleared and rainforest land on a Panamanian island and are in the process of building our totally Earth-friendly and sustainable, toxin-free home. We would like to utilize the bamboo that we have already established on our property. This would be for interior trim, windows, kitchen and bathroom cabinets, headboards, various furniture pieces, as well as some outdoor structures. I guess the most pressing issue is how to construct the counters and windows (the windows have to be accord ian style (double, 2 panes each side, opening inward), due to the way we designed the house for maximum air flow). PLEASE give us some ideas. We REALLY want to do this right, and make it look REALLY good, so others can be inspired to make more sound ecological choices.
A: (Jo Scheer) Great project. Not knowing the species of bamboo you have planted makes any design recommendations difficult. However, one rule of thumb- harvest bamboo that is at least 5 years old- for maximum strength and durability. Also, cure the bamboo in the shade for two months after cutting the bamboo, and allowing the leaves to transpire the moisture out of the culm. Split, woven bamboo is a good strategy as it dries out quickly. Whole culms can trap moisture inside-causing rot. If shielded from rain and sun, the bamboo will last a very long time.
What about salt-water curing? Would you recommend that?
(Jo Scheer) Salt water curing does work. The starches are water soluble, and leach out. How long to soak them- I do not know. Too long may adversely affect the surface. The common bamboo, B. vulgaris, is widely planted, though its' high starch content makes it not so great. With good curing, stand curing (leaving the cut culm in the stand for a month), they can be used.
Q: I am wanting to built a noise reduction barrier wall out of bamboo (long 8 ft stalks from ceiling to floor). I love the green natural colors and want to preserve the color. Can I nail them straight up without drying them first (fresh from harvest), and what is the best "natural" way to keep them green (some have said spray paint or polyurethane).
A: (Jo Scheer) The bamboo should be harvested from the inner part of the stand, trying to harvest 5 year old culms- strongest, best. They then should be left in the stand to cure- use up any remaining starch and water- about 1 month. They are then collected, cleaned, and used.
Every attempt I have seen to color bamboo, usually green, looks totally artificial- not natural. Polyurethane will not stick to the smooth skin of bamboo, and peels away as the bamboo contracts and expands with the weather/humidity. The natural, light tan/cured bamboo looks nice with a light coating of furniture polish. Oil tends to collect dirt. Or a 50-50 combo of linseed oil & beeswax works nice.
Q: I'm trying to get some huge window shutters installed.The frame is made out of mild steel and we were planning to use whole round bamboo, about 2" diameter, with about 1" spacing inside the frame fit horizontally. These frames will be placed on the first floor of a building. What kind of treatment should I do to make sure the bamboo can bear the weather. I'm located in India and its usually hot. During monsoon it rains a lot and winters are cold. The frames are placed on the exterior and do not have any over hang that would protect them from rain or sunshine.
A: (Jo Scheer) The bamboo will likely split, then rot, especially horizontally mounted. Better to use split, vertically mounted, but they will still weather and deteriorate without protection from sun and rain.
Q: I am using some old-growth bamboo that I cut here in the southern United States (Tennessee), and I'm not sure which variety or sub-species it is, but the pieces I have are about 3 inches in diameter. I am not using it to build with, but do plan to make a stand for my hammer dulcimer music instrument, which weighs about 15-20 pounds. Not a heavy weight, I know, but for aesthetics I would rather the bamboo not split on me. In addition to wrapping the ends with wire as you suggest, would you recommend any kind of oil or such treatment that might prevent splitting? I was thinking of maybe saturating the bamboo with linseed oil (I have plenty of the stuff) if that would tend to prevent it from splitting.
A: (Jo Scheer) I know of no treatment that prevents cracking. However, cracking is due to drying out, so, anything that keeps the fibers from drying out, would help, I think. Linseed oil applied or infused into the interior of the bamboo, while knocking out the internodes, would work best. The outer skin is pretty impermeable. Another technique is to do a sacrificial crack, easing the tension, on the side that you do not see in your stand, or whatever.
Q: How long does well preserved bamboo last? Its for building construction.
A: (Jo Scheer) Well preserved bamboo can last over 100 years (bamboo used for coffee drying sheds in Columbia). If sheltered from rain and direct sun, it can last a very long time. However, if not protected, and subjected to harsh environmental damage, it will quickly deteriorate. It all depends...
What is the preservation method that lasts it this long? How long does a borax treatment last? Do you know any other environmental friendly treatments that lasts for a long time?
(Jo Scheer) In essence, the coffee drying sheds that I was referring to had no preservation treatment. The key to their longevity is design - large overhangs, no contact with the ground, maintenance, no exposure to direct sun and rain.
The borax treatment is a very good, environmentally friendly method of treatment. But, remember, borax is water soluble - it will leach out with continued exposure to rain, losing its effectiveness. Some people use old engine oil as a treatment. Effective, but not very nice.
As long as the borax does not leach out, its effect lasts forever. Practically speaking, however, I would expect some leaching or migration with variations in relative humidity, dew point events, etc - purely conjecture.
Q: Since bamboo won't last with the Utah weather, is is feasible to remove the bamboo panels each winter, as they are installed with screws to the frames. Also what material should be used for the framing so it can be permanent thoughout the coming years.
A: (Jo Scheer) I would guess you are talking of bamboo panels on an outdoor fence. The framing should be treated wood - painted so it does not leach, or otherwise sealed. You could design it such that the bamboo panels are easily removable. It would increase the life tremendously, I would think.
Q: I'm currently a degree 1st year student in university.. I'm designing a bamboo house in my project. I would like to know how to maintain a bamboo house? How is each part of the design prone to breakdown? How frequent to maintain each part of the design?
A: (Jo Scheer) Bamboo is a natural material-prone to rot due to wetness, bugs (termites, pollilla bug), discoloration due to sun fading, and migration of silica to surface (making it white.) The key is to minimize these effects through good design. Oil or wax treatment is a good preventive treatment, as well as borax pre-treatment.
Q: Every one seems to be trying to beat the curing process, and so am I if possible. I plan to build a tiki hut with a bar by my pool; it will not have a lot of direct sunlight. I plan to split green bamboo and mount the halves vertically to my hut without it coming in contact with the ground, would this work?
A: (Jo Scheer) Stand curing, leaving the culm in the stand after cutting, for a month or two, is a simple method to reduce starch content and water content. Also, cutting older culms ( like 5 years old or so) makes for stronger culms and lower starch content. Good to keep it out of the sun, away from rain, and away from soil. Green culms, after splitting, may contort a bit, curling up, twisting, etc.
Q: I am drying 2-3 inch bamboo in my garage, some are 10 foot tall. I started cutting bamboo in Feb. from a guy who wants most of the bamboo gone. Most of the bamboo are over 10 years old. In the garage they are laid vertically and on concrete. I've read numerous ways of drying the bamboo, air drying is the way I have chosen. So any advice to slow down the drying process?
A: (Jo Scheer) If you want to slow the drying process, to prevent uneven drying and cracking, I suppose increasing the relative humidity with daily spraying or humidifier. Also, turn the bamboo periodically to keep things even.
Q: I would like to use bamboo roofing (instead of hardwood singles) and terra cotta ties. We live in hurricane prone tropical zone (Kakinada, Andhra Pradesh, India). Please suggest to me what treatment for termites, waterproofing and fire proofing I need to do.
A: (Jo Scheer) Bamboo cannot be made fireproof, and a treatment of borax infusion will prevent bugs- as long as the bamboo stays dry. India has a tradition of bamboo building, check out other examples to duplicate.
Q: If I were to build an underwater structure (not large, ten feet tall max) out of bamboo without treating the bamboo, how long do you think the structure would maintain integrity (keeping in mind it will be completely submerged for the entire duration)?
A: (Jo Scheer) Bamboo, untreated will last maybe a year. Very quickly devoured by organisms/rot. In the islands, they make fish cages out of bamboo. However, to make them last, they are removed from the water and completely dried out.
Common treatment for bamboo is borax. Unfortunately, it is totally water soluble and quickly leached out.
Q: I have grown fond of the idea of working with bamboo: craft, home decorations, construction design, etc but I don't know were to start. I know there's local bamboo growing here, but don't know if it's the adequate type of bamboo for working with it.
A: (Jo Scheer) The local bamboo is Bambusa vulgaris. Very nice bamboo, but use older culms (5 years) , and cure it properly, or use bamboo already dead in the stand (stand cured). Experiment, do your research.
Q: I just received a bamboo cup that was freshly cut as a few days ago. What should I do next? Leave it out to dry? Or should I apply a bees wax or oil to preserve it?
A: (Jo Scheer) Yes, apply the beeswax/oil- it will slow the drying out and prevent cracks. Freshly cut? Still green? Not good. Keep it out of the sun. A long slow drying and curing is better than quick.
Q: I see a product on the internet called bamboo plywood, 3/4", presumably made with glue. What is the durability of this product when exposed to rain ? Also, I see termites can eat bamboo, but what about manufactured solid bamboo flooring 5/8" thick?
A: (Jo Scheer) Any bamboo exposed to rain is not good. Water soaks in, mold and mildew get established, etc. Termites will eat bamboo, it is cellulose after all. I have heard of termites eating bamboo floors in the tropics...not good. Treated might work.
Q: With our foundation, in Philippines, we are planning to build an entire village in bamboo. We want it to be an example of an environment friendly project. We plan to treat the bamboo to make it last longer. We don't want to use any chemical component for this treatment, we were thinking to let the bamboo soak in water or salted water during several weeks. It will be matinik bamboo (local species), the thickness is around 2cms. Do you have any advice about this treatment? Clear water or salted water (I heard that salted water can bring moisture)? How long do we have to immersed it? Do we have to change the water?
A: (Jo Scheer) Those with the equipment pressure treat bamboo with a 5% borax solution (not sure of the percentage). Or, alternatively, place freshly cut bamboo in a pail of borax solution. It will soak into the bamboo vascular bundles as it transpires water from the leaves. Some soak the bamboo in salt or fresh water, leaching out excess starch. Salt does attract moisture. None of these treatments make bamboo impervious to sun and rain. So, a good design has large overhangs, no contact with the ground, open design, and well ventilated.
Q: We have had a bamboo lounge chair for a long time. Joints are wrapped with bamboo straps. It has been stored inside and not in the weather. We have noticed that some of the wrappings have come undone, but have managed to rewrap and glue them back in place. But we also noticed that some of these bands have cracked and the chair has areas that look dried out. Is there any product (oil? or...?) that we should use on it to bring back a little moisture or protection so that it does not continue to crack in areas with further use?
A: (Jo Scheer) My woodworking friend uses a 50-50 mix of beeswax and linseed oil. Preserves the bamboo by sealing in the oil.
Q: We are going to use freshly cut bamboo for the decoration inside our bathrooms in our island fales. They will be exposed to moisture as they are in the bathroom. The bamboo we were hoping to split whilst still green and nail into place where we thought it would dry. Will this work? We were going to use half rounds.
A: (Jo Scheer) Should work. You may get mold, though. Best to allow the bamboo to dry out and cure. Maybe treat with anti fungal, oil , or furniture Polish. Also, drill holes and nail or screw, to prevent splitting.
Q: We built a dead bamboo tiki bar in my office and something is EATING my bamboo! I cant pull the bar apart, seems like a beetle or termite? Any suggestions?
A: (Jo Scheer) Probably powder post beetle. The best way to stop it is freeze the whole thing for 48 hours. Probably not practical. I had (have) a ping pong bamboo table that had the beetle. Applied 50-50 beeswax and linseed oil- covering the holes and making the bamboo not so tasty. It worked, still intact.
Q: I want to make some eco-friendly planter boxes for outside use made with 100% natural products and bamboo is my material of choice. However, I`m not sure how long the bamboo will last being exposed to the elements. Here is my query. How long can/will the inside wall of split down the middle bamboo last when in direct constant contact with the soil that is watered as needed for plant growth? What about the outside wall of the bamboo being exposed to direct sunlight? Also an answer for both using treated as well as untreated bamboo would be appreciated. I`m thinking if untreated bamboo would last for 3-5 years that may be okay. If treated bamboo would last much longer what does it need to be treated with? Is there a variety of bamboo that is more suitable than others for my purpose?
A: (Jo Scheer) Constant exposure to damp soil will rot bamboo within 2-3 years, maybe faster. Exposure to direct sunlight will bleach and crack the exterior surface. Treatment with an eco-friendly borax solution will not work, as the borax is water soluble and will leach out very quickly being exposed to water. Some species of bamboo are more resistant to rot, i.e., guadua, but not immune. China has many species of bamboo, perhaps D.asper. I would line the inside with an impermeable membrane- plastic sheeting, elastomeric roof coating, and coat the exterior with oil, or oil-beeswax solution. Still, it will not last forever.
Q: I just cut a 30 feet tall bamboo into 6 feet pieces. I am planning to make a trellis for my veggies. Should I cure them before splitting them or cure them after making the trellis. They will be exposed to sun/rain etc... Propane torch good to cure them? OR I can just leave under the deck, shade but might get little wet in rain? or garage, it will be closed but no direct sunlight or water.
A: (Jo Scheer) Curing out of the sun and rain always helps. Even so, rhe bamboo will deteriorate over time regardless. Split into quarters for easy weaving, and reinforce the junctions with wire.
Q: I make insect hotels using untreated bamboo packed inside a pine 'house' (box). I do not always have weeks or months to dry bamboo as these are made for school workshops (the kids make them from a kit I provide) and I may receive a sudden request for 100 kits for a workshop in a short time frame. Because these are for bees they need to be absolutely bee friendly so do you think there is a way of drying bamboo (each piece is 12cm long by between 2mm-30mm) once it is cut. I just lost a large amount to mold that was drying on tin sheeting in a paddock (not undercover - silly me), or am I doomed to end up with mold if I cut green stuff into smaller bits. I live in Australia with very mixed conditions from hot and dry or hot and humid in summer. Perhaps cut stored in cane baskets in a shady shed? The business is growing and my methods need to improve.
A: (Jo Scheer) Cool business. The problem as I see it is moisture-humidity. Your cut bamboo needs to be shaded and ventilated. Warm temperature and high humidity is ideal for mold growth. Also, thinner bamboo will dry out more quickly. Or, dry whole culms before cutting to size.
Q: My wife and I own/operate a leisure farm here in the south of Taiwan. We now have access to a lot of bamboo, a lot of it large enough for 'house building'. So I want to 'treat' the stuff I get. I was going to make a bamboo 'steamer' and treat it with borax/boric acid. But I here in Taiwan some places also 'smoke it' to add further protection. We used some of their 'smoked bamboo' to make Indonesian rain sticks. It looks quite nice and would add another element of durability. My question is do you have any information on doing this?
A: (Jo Scheer) I am familiar with the smoke method. It has been used since, like, forever. And it works. ...mostly for interior applications. Same goes for borax- it is water soluble and will eventually dissolve out with rain. The key is design. Large overhangs, open architecture, footings that keep the bamboo away from the earth and inaccessible to termite migration. ( i use a small moat). Also, design with the possibility that some components may need to be replaced. Design such that replacement is relatively easy.
My idea is to 'boil' the bamboo for a while (not sure how long is recommended) then add borax/boric acid. Let them dry for a week or two then smoke. I will build two chambers out of 40 gallon drums, one for boiling and one for smoking. As most of the buildings I make are with 'papercrete' they all have good roof overhangs, and are built well off the ground. This will also be a good idea when using bamboo. I have 'checked out' quite a few buildings here made with bamboo. I intend to 'get the same look', but with modern techniques, the buildings should be 'drier' and more livable.
I like it. Your curing method will definitely reduce or eliminate the starch content.
Q: I plan to build an indoor greenhouse and I want to use bamboo for the shelving. The grow room will be very humid and wet, will this be a problem for cured bamboo? Is using fire to cure the bamboo an effective method? I would like to be able to use the bamboo weeks after they are cut.
A: (Jo Scheer) The high humidity may cause mold or mildew, and thus may turn the bamboo black. The organisms feed off the cellulose- the basic building g block of plant structure. Still functional for a few years though.
Is there any way I can protect the bamboo to prevent this?
Not a cure, but linseed oil or 50-50 beeswax/linseed oil will penetrate the fibers and slow the deterioration. Very slow.
Q: We live in Florida and have a lot of bamboo in our yard. It's pretty blue and we would like to preserve the color and use it in our house as decoration. What's the best way for a novice to do this?
A: (Jo Scheer) Generally, bamboo will change color upon death. The coloring of the chlorophyll is removed. Elaborate infusion of dyes may work,....best to be happy with the natural color.
Q: We are researching borax/ boric acid bamboo preservation methods and we wonder how long will the preservation method be effective for outdoor usage in a tropical context? Or, if there is any knowledge you can kindly provide us about the span of borax preservation method. Because the project relies on donations, we are keen to find out an effective but cheap and non-harmful preservation method.
A: (Jo Scheer) Borax preservation is only effective with bamboo totally shielded from the elements, ie rain. Borax is water soluble and will leach out. The best and most effective bamboo preservation is good architectural design- large overhangs with awnings, porches, etc. Selection of bamboo with attention to telltale clues to bamboo beetle, powder post beetle, infestation. Also, use bamboo species that are naturally resistant to insect damage- low starch content. Keep the structure effectively separate from the ground- access points for termites. I am now using cement pilings designed to have a moat- a water barrier to insect access to the structure. Finally, maintenance. Check the structure thoroughly for signs of insect infection. You can treat the specific locale rather than the complete structure. Good design also addresses this maintenance requirement- components are easily accessible, visually inspectable, and easily replaced.
(Comment): We use this borax/ boric acid/ water solution to strengthen and preserve our bamboo here in Belize. We cut the bamboo in 20ft lengths, harvesting usually around the time of the full moon. With long rebar rods, we pierce the membranes inside the bamboo, leaving the bottom membrane intact. Then we fill & soak the bamboo with the solution, letting it stand & soak vertically for a week. This way the bamboo lasts years longer, and it retains its luster even in the bright sun. Without this soaking method, it cracks, decays and is eaten by molds, termites & insects. In our off-grid lodge here, we use bamboo here for porch balusters, outdoor shower walls, building greenhouses, furniture and other non-structural uses.
Q: I want to build a jetty out of bamboo. Here in Indonesia I see a lot of small jetties made of bamboo but I don't know how long they last. About the bamboo jetty pilars that stand in water. Will they rot slower in treated or will treated bamboo rot fast anyway if immersed in water?
A: (Jo Scheer) The borax treatment is water soluble. It will leach out very quickly. I have seen temporary jetty, dock, bridge construction. I think the key to longevity is to remove the structure periodically and thoroughly dry it out in the sun. Replace the bad stuff, and rebuild.
Q: I am making table lamps using bamboo as a center pole. I drill it out to run electrical to the socket. Then I stain with a stain-polyurethane varnish. In one case I am joining sections for a floor lamp. In that case I cut at the ‘knuckles’ and infuse the exposed end grain with penetrating wood hardener to strengthen and prevent cracking. Is the 50/50 beeswax linseed oil a better method? I like the stain though. Could possibly add tint to the 50/50 mix?
A: (Jo Scheer) Penetrating wood hardener might work. Not sure how effective the beeswax is for this purpose... mostly just a finish. I've had polyurethane detach from the smooth bamboo skin. A light sanding might help the adherence.
Q: Can we rub wood tar as preservative on bamboo instead of linseed oil/beewax?
A: (Kelly) You probably could rub bamboo with tar but it would not sink in much and would rub back off fairly easily. So it would not be a very durable solution.
Q: My landlord built the guesthouse I am renting using bamboo poles on the outside porch roof. He put Plexiglas on top. The roof is flat and north facing so not much sunshine. The bamboo has black areas in it which I fear are MOLD. I would like your advice as to an alternative to bamboo, or IF it is mold or just the colors in the bamboo.
A: (Kelly) Mold usually requires moisture to form, but this could occur from condensation in the situation you describe. One thing you might try to remove the mold is use lemon oil or a solution of vinegar and water.